1. Square your quilt top and backing. Please, no uneven or ragged edges.
The best success for achieving a ‘squared top’ is to measure the quilt top in three areas. Measure the top, measure the middle and measure the bottom. Calculate the average and cut your borders to the average measurement. Then sew. Do this for both the width and the length.
This will help eliminate fullness, wavy or puckered borders.
2. If your quilt top has a final border which is pieced with seams exposed to the outer edge, please stitch around the entire quilt top close to the outer edge (less than 1/4”) so when your binding is stitched on, you will not see this running stitch. This running stitch secures your pieced border from coming apart or popping at the seams when it is loaded onto the longarm machine.
If your border is one solid piece of fabric, there is no need to do this step.
3. Cut your batting 3” wider on all sides than your quilt top.
4. Cut your backing 4"-5" wider (but no wider than 6" please) on all sides than your quilt top. I like to see each layer as I quilt. If you need to piece your backing fabric, the seam should be approximately 5/8” wide and pressed open. If sewn on the salvage edge, the salvage should be removed.
5. Press the quilt top and backing. Wrinkles may not always quilt out.
6. Do not pin, baste or sandwich your quilt. It will be loaded onto 3 separate rollers.
7. Clip threads. You don’t want dark threads showing behind a white sashing or quilt block!
8. If needed, indicate the top of the quilt and backing with a safety pinned note.
9. If piecing your backing, please call me ahead of time for tips on how to achieve a successful look.
Please allow from the time the quilt has been dropped off, 2-3 months for completion.
Thank you,
Karen
Chezstitches@comcast.net
Chezstitches.blogspot.com
